Karunai Illam

Karunai Illam is a very special place for me.
It is a place where I saw children living together and supporting eachother with kindness. These kids are funny, playful, sharp...... cool cats!

There are some that are so determined to achieve higher education and get a job that will pull them and their family out of poverty. I've met many young people who consider it their duty, and obviously something to feel great pride about, to focus on supporting their family by getting a good job. There are some that just naturally want to have a good time! This environment will ensure that they'll have the best opportunities with the study schedule's set in place.

There is no disengenuousness, jealousy, they still play like young children but they are mature. Some of them said they want to see the world. I hope they do, I hope that the complicated inequalities which keep millions of hardworking people poor and stuck, can be overcome.
They are great dancers!

As you could expect, I can say that I got to know some children more than others. Janauary/February is the time leading up to the end of year exams so some of the more studious were noses in books studying everything. Some I just happened to spend more time with becasue of circumstances like going on DHAN related trips such as the environmental awareness 'marathon' walks and essay competitions, some were always asking questions and wanted to practise speaking while others were more shy. I will rememeber them all, and look forward to seeing them again, seeing where they have found themselves.

Karunai Illam is a place where these children are well looked after in an environment where study is a focus. I met many caring parents and other family members come and visit, having a long talk with Nagarathanim madam about how they're going. They have alot of people who care about them and want the best for them. As they absolutely should.

I will alwyas remember the generosity and care that I recieved here at Karunai Illam from everybody. I was treated as a daughter, adopted as a sister.

Mumbai

So a 12 hour train trip from goa to mumbai! but it had the advantage of costing only about 15NZD rather than 150, and the scenery was beautiful.

It seemed like there was forest the whole way, occasionally you would see a few thatch or concrete houses amongst the trees. I was pretty surprised about this seeing as there re 1billion people in India! But really there wasn't much in the way of humanity relative to nature until you got close to mumbai, there you could smell the river a mile away :p

But Mumbai is great!

 Juhu Beach In Bandra, a very rich area where Woody here lives. This beach was PACKED! later we went to a beautiful Krishna temple and a 5star beach view resort. Awesome.

The view from the roof top of the Intercontinental Hotel, where Woody performs 3 nights a week. 

Sideways blue Woody

On Tuesday Woody and I went for a tour in Daravi slum. Another New Zealander who had just spent a few weeks at the illam, Mark, also met up with us there. Fascinating. It is actually an old (since the 1840's, very established economic powerhouse with people there from all over India. I always wondered if India recycled, but it seems like it is all done here. It was explained that the workers had fabricated their own plastic crushing, melting and strip making machines, which are ten chopped into pellets and resold.  There were huge piles of sorted electronic plastics bottles and everything you could think of in sacks in these tiny two story hand made slum houses.  OSH would have a total field day, with the fumes and sparks and noise, with no eye, ear, hand or mouth protection. but apparently when this equipment is supplied is is soon thrown away by the workers used to more freedom of movement. Next onto the oil and paint bottle recycling area, where they are boiled and rinsed, then banged onto shape again to be resold to the companies. Tis process can only be done about 3 or 4 times, so after this the metal is banged flat and used and wall and roofing material in the slum. brilliant.

It was a very varied place with different 'suburbs' with people from different states devoted to different industries (such as pottery, leather work). Also with muslim and hindu domestic areas which were obvious by little hanging flags; this has been since the religious riots in 1992 over a originally hindu site that muslims build a mosque on. Sigh. But now there is peace and people work together even if they don't live together. 

We were taken through very narrow and low streets, more like corridors, where people would climb ladders up to their upstairs house. It was not hot even though it was all tin and concrete blocks, I guess because of the shadow everywhere. There was full electricity, but water and bathroom facilities were shared by a block, with water kept in very large blue plastic barrels outside houses.

We were not allowed to take photo's, which I'm really happy about. It felt far more respectful. The people were a mix of friendly and 'oh another tour, :p which is totally understandable I guess! 

The women in the Hindu areas made papadoms which were dried on large woven baskets in the sun in more open areas.  All the children go to school, but a child or baby can also be hired out after to beg by begging ringleaders!

If anyone comes to Mumbai, I really recommend doing this, so interesting to see and talk to people there. To be honest I had no real preconceptions about what a slum would be like, but I think this one is very unique with it's industriousness and important role in the economic life of Mumbai.

The rest of the Time here I've been hanging out with Woody, who has shown me some wonderful restaurants and regaled me with great mumbai stories, as well as hanging out with Mark and seeing the sites such as the art galleries and architecture which is beautiful and powerful ye-olde english style. Also really enjoyed going on long rambling walks through the main city and the great chats!

 Some old railway building

The Gateway to India, by King george and queen Mary

A surprise trip to Goa

Hi,

So I wasn't planning on going to Goa, but i met a couple of friendly fellow massage therapists in Kannur who were going up there so I tagged along.

It was actually a really nice change to have a few days of lazing on the beach, swimming, walking aroud wearing western clothes and a variety of resort food.

THese photo's are all from a day we spent at turtle beach, one of only 11 places in the world where Giant Turtles breed. Hopefully development, which has been banned officially, is truly kept at bay. he other beaches are already fully hutted up!

With my new Aryuvedic massage buddy Robbi I'm thinking of going to an ashram in Bangalore about the 24th, on reccommendation of the lovely Vidya.

feeling tanned and relaxed!

Kannur: Channeling Gods, and choosing to stay and relax on the beach

Wow, Theyyum rituals!

In my travel guide this was the one thing i really wanted to see outside of Karunai Illam. Theyyum is local to this northern area in Kerala; It has pre-Hindu origins, and is thought to have come from the tribes people in the hills to the west. The gods are either local ones, or local aspects of the Hindu Gods such as Vishnu.

Specific families can only do certain Gods at certain temples - so it is a caste based lineage. The people who perform are of the lower castes, it was their way of connecting to the deities when not really being allowed to join in with higher caste temple functions. THe drummers are also from a caste lineage. Training begins young from father to son.

A village will organise a Theyyum; at about 5-7 at night the man who becomes the God will be mentally preparing for the transformation, applying makeup and costume, possibly with help. By the end of this he is shown himself in a mirror and the transformation is complete, a totally different persona, not quite haughty, but extremely composed and confident. The drums have been getting more and more exciting, and now he (or now she if it is a female God) will usually begin by walking around and around three times the temple at the centre of throngs of people (including a few gangly serious faced gawking foreigners).

Then the dancing! The God leads/conducts the drummers with His steps, in an elaborate dance specific to each God where they will bless the temple Gods and people. after this was finished, that God would hold question-answer blessing session for the villagers, and another Theyyum would begin.

Then we would go back to the hotel, and if any f the old people there were up fpr it i would share a taxi back at about 4am to see the grand finale. At about this time the gods would take on their Mature aspect, and would be in Amazing elaborate and occasionally huge costumes. They would do things like fall into hot coals over and over again, with wilder dancing. A marathon effort I have to say.

More soon!

xoxo

Thoughts on teaching

When I came to Karunai Illam I thought I would be a good teacher, I felt confident after  having taught people tai chi and Piano that there would be no problems.
However there is a great skill to teaching! (of course) and small children require a very different approach to my previous experience with adults.
So my attempts to take classes at the dhan karunai school left me sweating and the children bored and probably a bit frustrated. However I think I helped a few students at Karunai Illam (the older age group!) with their grammar classes and pronunciation.
I would call on all people who are even slightly interested in going to Karunai Illam if you have some teaching experience or other skill you think could be contributed, it is such a great place with so many lovely people.

Safari

So I have splurged on a safari. hmmmmmm, bank balance, how are you? ok for another safari and 4 mroe weeks in India? hope so.

So my travel luck goes a bit like this.....

I was going to do my months travel in february to catch the cooler weather, but I changed [plans to instead leave in March.

So that meant dry/fire season was in full swing and I could not go to Wayanad wild like reserve in Kerala.

Some Info.....
The three bordering states of Kerala (Wayanad, west side), Tamil Nadu (Mudamalai, east side) and Karnataka (Bandipur and Nilgiri to the north) share a large forest reserve (plagued by poachers according to a doco i watched). THe bandipur part was the personal hunting grounds/reserve forst for the last Maharashta in Mysore (Palace of whom I visited today, incredible! my photo's are bad so I'm not bothering).
........

So i had to take the expensive option of going to Bandipur. THe forest is parched, Giant clumps of bamboo, dry brush everywhere. However, this relative lack of beauty was offset buy the fact that it is the best time to see the animals on safari! as they all come out to the watering holes.

Ah the things i just fall into.

I've realise that booking at the last minute and relying on the kindness of strangers is my travel style. I guess as long as I stick to travelling slightly off season I'll be allright!

SO, I can officially say I've seen a leopard, a trtiger, wild elephants, mongeese, huge serpent eagles and owlas and buzzards, lots of deer (little spotted and Sambar) peacocks and brightly coloured parots....

and that's not to mention the monkeys :p

ASnd now I've indulged my taste for luxery travel I'm styaying at ta youth hostel in Mysore for 100 ruppes/night and a bus ride into town


photo's later (my park photo's are a bit crap, but never mind)

love to you all

4 days gone.....

Hi!

So I left Karunai Illam 4 days ago.

I was very sad for me, but everyone there said Jas don't you cry, so I have started my new habit of not crying very easily at everything. Which I find very difficult when the slightest squirt of emotion rocks up from my chest, locks in my throat and burns in my eyes..... but really, it is probably time to work on that one!

 I am so grateful for meeting everyone there, I will definitely be staying in touch, and am possibly thinking of starting the 'Society for Bringing Dheva to New Zealand" (sobdenz) when I get back home. Of course I know he would find it very difficult to leave his elderly parents, so it is purely selfish.

The last two nights with the children we hung out and took lots of photo's and chatted. one last game of duck duck goose was played, one last reminder to use past tense was given. A few hugs.
And then a dance show, followed by official good by and see you later cake which is traditionally given from guests.

I hope I gave enough in return for what I got from there, that's all I can say.


So now I'm staying until the 3rd of April!