Karunai Illam

Karunai Illam is a very special place for me.
It is a place where I saw children living together and supporting eachother with kindness. These kids are funny, playful, sharp...... cool cats!

There are some that are so determined to achieve higher education and get a job that will pull them and their family out of poverty. I've met many young people who consider it their duty, and obviously something to feel great pride about, to focus on supporting their family by getting a good job. There are some that just naturally want to have a good time! This environment will ensure that they'll have the best opportunities with the study schedule's set in place.

There is no disengenuousness, jealousy, they still play like young children but they are mature. Some of them said they want to see the world. I hope they do, I hope that the complicated inequalities which keep millions of hardworking people poor and stuck, can be overcome.
They are great dancers!

As you could expect, I can say that I got to know some children more than others. Janauary/February is the time leading up to the end of year exams so some of the more studious were noses in books studying everything. Some I just happened to spend more time with becasue of circumstances like going on DHAN related trips such as the environmental awareness 'marathon' walks and essay competitions, some were always asking questions and wanted to practise speaking while others were more shy. I will rememeber them all, and look forward to seeing them again, seeing where they have found themselves.

Karunai Illam is a place where these children are well looked after in an environment where study is a focus. I met many caring parents and other family members come and visit, having a long talk with Nagarathanim madam about how they're going. They have alot of people who care about them and want the best for them. As they absolutely should.

I will alwyas remember the generosity and care that I recieved here at Karunai Illam from everybody. I was treated as a daughter, adopted as a sister.

Mumbai

So a 12 hour train trip from goa to mumbai! but it had the advantage of costing only about 15NZD rather than 150, and the scenery was beautiful.

It seemed like there was forest the whole way, occasionally you would see a few thatch or concrete houses amongst the trees. I was pretty surprised about this seeing as there re 1billion people in India! But really there wasn't much in the way of humanity relative to nature until you got close to mumbai, there you could smell the river a mile away :p

But Mumbai is great!

 Juhu Beach In Bandra, a very rich area where Woody here lives. This beach was PACKED! later we went to a beautiful Krishna temple and a 5star beach view resort. Awesome.

The view from the roof top of the Intercontinental Hotel, where Woody performs 3 nights a week. 

Sideways blue Woody

On Tuesday Woody and I went for a tour in Daravi slum. Another New Zealander who had just spent a few weeks at the illam, Mark, also met up with us there. Fascinating. It is actually an old (since the 1840's, very established economic powerhouse with people there from all over India. I always wondered if India recycled, but it seems like it is all done here. It was explained that the workers had fabricated their own plastic crushing, melting and strip making machines, which are ten chopped into pellets and resold.  There were huge piles of sorted electronic plastics bottles and everything you could think of in sacks in these tiny two story hand made slum houses.  OSH would have a total field day, with the fumes and sparks and noise, with no eye, ear, hand or mouth protection. but apparently when this equipment is supplied is is soon thrown away by the workers used to more freedom of movement. Next onto the oil and paint bottle recycling area, where they are boiled and rinsed, then banged onto shape again to be resold to the companies. Tis process can only be done about 3 or 4 times, so after this the metal is banged flat and used and wall and roofing material in the slum. brilliant.

It was a very varied place with different 'suburbs' with people from different states devoted to different industries (such as pottery, leather work). Also with muslim and hindu domestic areas which were obvious by little hanging flags; this has been since the religious riots in 1992 over a originally hindu site that muslims build a mosque on. Sigh. But now there is peace and people work together even if they don't live together. 

We were taken through very narrow and low streets, more like corridors, where people would climb ladders up to their upstairs house. It was not hot even though it was all tin and concrete blocks, I guess because of the shadow everywhere. There was full electricity, but water and bathroom facilities were shared by a block, with water kept in very large blue plastic barrels outside houses.

We were not allowed to take photo's, which I'm really happy about. It felt far more respectful. The people were a mix of friendly and 'oh another tour, :p which is totally understandable I guess! 

The women in the Hindu areas made papadoms which were dried on large woven baskets in the sun in more open areas.  All the children go to school, but a child or baby can also be hired out after to beg by begging ringleaders!

If anyone comes to Mumbai, I really recommend doing this, so interesting to see and talk to people there. To be honest I had no real preconceptions about what a slum would be like, but I think this one is very unique with it's industriousness and important role in the economic life of Mumbai.

The rest of the Time here I've been hanging out with Woody, who has shown me some wonderful restaurants and regaled me with great mumbai stories, as well as hanging out with Mark and seeing the sites such as the art galleries and architecture which is beautiful and powerful ye-olde english style. Also really enjoyed going on long rambling walks through the main city and the great chats!

 Some old railway building

The Gateway to India, by King george and queen Mary

A surprise trip to Goa

Hi,

So I wasn't planning on going to Goa, but i met a couple of friendly fellow massage therapists in Kannur who were going up there so I tagged along.

It was actually a really nice change to have a few days of lazing on the beach, swimming, walking aroud wearing western clothes and a variety of resort food.

THese photo's are all from a day we spent at turtle beach, one of only 11 places in the world where Giant Turtles breed. Hopefully development, which has been banned officially, is truly kept at bay. he other beaches are already fully hutted up!

With my new Aryuvedic massage buddy Robbi I'm thinking of going to an ashram in Bangalore about the 24th, on reccommendation of the lovely Vidya.

feeling tanned and relaxed!

Kannur: Channeling Gods, and choosing to stay and relax on the beach

Wow, Theyyum rituals!

In my travel guide this was the one thing i really wanted to see outside of Karunai Illam. Theyyum is local to this northern area in Kerala; It has pre-Hindu origins, and is thought to have come from the tribes people in the hills to the west. The gods are either local ones, or local aspects of the Hindu Gods such as Vishnu.

Specific families can only do certain Gods at certain temples - so it is a caste based lineage. The people who perform are of the lower castes, it was their way of connecting to the deities when not really being allowed to join in with higher caste temple functions. THe drummers are also from a caste lineage. Training begins young from father to son.

A village will organise a Theyyum; at about 5-7 at night the man who becomes the God will be mentally preparing for the transformation, applying makeup and costume, possibly with help. By the end of this he is shown himself in a mirror and the transformation is complete, a totally different persona, not quite haughty, but extremely composed and confident. The drums have been getting more and more exciting, and now he (or now she if it is a female God) will usually begin by walking around and around three times the temple at the centre of throngs of people (including a few gangly serious faced gawking foreigners).

Then the dancing! The God leads/conducts the drummers with His steps, in an elaborate dance specific to each God where they will bless the temple Gods and people. after this was finished, that God would hold question-answer blessing session for the villagers, and another Theyyum would begin.

Then we would go back to the hotel, and if any f the old people there were up fpr it i would share a taxi back at about 4am to see the grand finale. At about this time the gods would take on their Mature aspect, and would be in Amazing elaborate and occasionally huge costumes. They would do things like fall into hot coals over and over again, with wilder dancing. A marathon effort I have to say.

More soon!

xoxo

Thoughts on teaching

When I came to Karunai Illam I thought I would be a good teacher, I felt confident after  having taught people tai chi and Piano that there would be no problems.
However there is a great skill to teaching! (of course) and small children require a very different approach to my previous experience with adults.
So my attempts to take classes at the dhan karunai school left me sweating and the children bored and probably a bit frustrated. However I think I helped a few students at Karunai Illam (the older age group!) with their grammar classes and pronunciation.
I would call on all people who are even slightly interested in going to Karunai Illam if you have some teaching experience or other skill you think could be contributed, it is such a great place with so many lovely people.

Safari

So I have splurged on a safari. hmmmmmm, bank balance, how are you? ok for another safari and 4 mroe weeks in India? hope so.

So my travel luck goes a bit like this.....

I was going to do my months travel in february to catch the cooler weather, but I changed [plans to instead leave in March.

So that meant dry/fire season was in full swing and I could not go to Wayanad wild like reserve in Kerala.

Some Info.....
The three bordering states of Kerala (Wayanad, west side), Tamil Nadu (Mudamalai, east side) and Karnataka (Bandipur and Nilgiri to the north) share a large forest reserve (plagued by poachers according to a doco i watched). THe bandipur part was the personal hunting grounds/reserve forst for the last Maharashta in Mysore (Palace of whom I visited today, incredible! my photo's are bad so I'm not bothering).
........

So i had to take the expensive option of going to Bandipur. THe forest is parched, Giant clumps of bamboo, dry brush everywhere. However, this relative lack of beauty was offset buy the fact that it is the best time to see the animals on safari! as they all come out to the watering holes.

Ah the things i just fall into.

I've realise that booking at the last minute and relying on the kindness of strangers is my travel style. I guess as long as I stick to travelling slightly off season I'll be allright!

SO, I can officially say I've seen a leopard, a trtiger, wild elephants, mongeese, huge serpent eagles and owlas and buzzards, lots of deer (little spotted and Sambar) peacocks and brightly coloured parots....

and that's not to mention the monkeys :p

ASnd now I've indulged my taste for luxery travel I'm styaying at ta youth hostel in Mysore for 100 ruppes/night and a bus ride into town


photo's later (my park photo's are a bit crap, but never mind)

love to you all

4 days gone.....

Hi!

So I left Karunai Illam 4 days ago.

I was very sad for me, but everyone there said Jas don't you cry, so I have started my new habit of not crying very easily at everything. Which I find very difficult when the slightest squirt of emotion rocks up from my chest, locks in my throat and burns in my eyes..... but really, it is probably time to work on that one!

 I am so grateful for meeting everyone there, I will definitely be staying in touch, and am possibly thinking of starting the 'Society for Bringing Dheva to New Zealand" (sobdenz) when I get back home. Of course I know he would find it very difficult to leave his elderly parents, so it is purely selfish.

The last two nights with the children we hung out and took lots of photo's and chatted. one last game of duck duck goose was played, one last reminder to use past tense was given. A few hugs.
And then a dance show, followed by official good by and see you later cake which is traditionally given from guests.

I hope I gave enough in return for what I got from there, that's all I can say.


So now I'm staying until the 3rd of April!

Dhan Karunai School

So I started a post on the school, but am only now going to finish it! Here’s the youtube link again to the video created by the famous Danny and Fish who came to stay in November-December.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8bf4_mImV0

So the school is just over the road from the Illam main building- it is separate but intertwined, with teachers coming over to make their tea in the Illams’ kitchen, and a head teacher, Glory, has been working with Dhan for a long time.

So Mr Ragavan! A very charming funny man who will apologise for his weak English, but he is  probably the clearest communicator here as well as second best with English next to Khader Sir (not meaning to put them in rankings or anything!)  It seems to me that he did not enjoy school; in fact he said he dropped out early.

 Ragavan speaking in the outdoor classrooms :)

 Prayer in the morning before school, Khader here for republic day.

 

Teachers.... Glory not in this sadly, I think she took the photo

Some musings………

The education here is very memorization focused, and children hesitate to express ideas. There is a lot packed into the curriculum over the year in each of the 7 subjects everyone has to take by the 10^th standard (botany, zoology, chemistry, physics, math’s, English, Tamil) so it seems to me that nothing is learnt very in-depth, some of the older girls are tackling things like……

1) Change this sentence to use the passive tense

‘The boys broke the window when they were playing’

Answer= The window was broken when the boys were playing.

(Something I don’t remember doing at school, so thank you internet!)

But they still cannot use simple correct past present and simple tense in writing or conversation. I think because they have to memorise something quickly for a test then suddenly move onto the next thing and forget the last. Or they don’t even understand what they are memorising. I think maybe it is different for the other subjects, but for English this seems to be the case to me.

Back to the primary school……….

So Ragavans’ dream was to start a school which…..

1)      provided good education,

2)      emphasized creativity and most importantly, was

3)      affordable to poor rural families.

So he did! In 2008 he started the kindy and primary school with Children aged from 3-7, with 33 children in the building; now it houses 189. And it is still growing! Next year more children will be coming in, and thanks to Danny and Fishs’ video, they have fundraised the required amount to build the new school (the old building being far too small).

So he is very interested in learning constructive and fun educational methods used in countries like NZ, (if you have any knowledge or ideas or class plans you want to pass on please let me know!). The teachers themselves learnt and trained in the old ways but are very interested in more progressive methods. From what I’ve seen they are very good teachers! And they are there for the love of the school and its ideas, as the salary here is relatively low. Of course the school still has to follow government curriculum as well, which doesn’t often fit with his ideas.

So, providing education at an affordable cost. The free government schools have a bad reputation, even though the teachers unions demand a high salary. So many people turn to private education. There are many more private schools here than government! A private school may cost 7000-10,000 rupees per year. The Dhan Karunai school is only 2,700/year. For the last four years the school has been funded by the Karunai Illam trust and Dhan. But over this time it has been difficult to balance the books because it was never sure how much funding they could plan for the next year. The 2011 school year has been the first where the school has reached their fourth goal, of being financially self sustaining. I think it’s an amazing feat for four years!

They have achieved this with an interesting system, whereby the fees of children from poor families are sponsored by wealthy families (wealthy children have been admitted for the last 3 years). This means that 15% of the children are from very poor families who would otherwise not been able to afford good education. Also, Ragavan said that these poor families are encouraged to take on paying more of the fees themselves over the years, from what I understand a way of stimulating the whole families economic well-being.

Long term vision: once this school and educational modal has proven itself to be sustainable and with high educational achievement, Ragavan hopes that the model will be taken on and implemented elsewhere by the government. Great!

Karunai Illam

 Karunai-illam.org

So I first became acquainted with Karunai Illam (Compassion House) through the Sufi style ‘turning’ group at the Wellington Study Group, where I met Michael and Gillian who are trustees in Karunai Illam Trust. They answered my question about a flier on the wall and this eventually turned into reading Jean Watson’s book about how the Illam began.

It was a great read! Beginning in the mid 80’s with a search for a different environment in which to stimulate creative writing, through meeting people who had a dream to start a home and make a difference to children who would otherwise have very little access to higher education.

Suddenly a totally different path in life!

The joys of accomplishments and the stress and anxiety of raising funds, the difficulties of dealing with Indian bureaucracy and wiring money to a different country before the internet, the growth with every year more children joining, the prolonged back and forth and indecision when finding the right plan to build new buildings. There have been huge emotional and financial investments by Jean and many other New Zealanders.

For the last four years the Dhan foundation has been running the Illam, now the Karunai Dhan Illam. From what I’ve heard it seems like this has been a relief for the trustees and Jean.

Like all things involving humans, it seems there have been interpersonal difficulties- differences in beliefs of how the Illam should be run both in culture and financially. Unfortunately this resulted in the co-founder Subiah diddling everybody by putting the new land Jean sold her house to buy under his wife’s name instead of the trusts, then selling it to a local politician. This drama has been a pain in the heart for everyone here and is still being fought over years later, now with the youth and proximity of the Dhan foundation rather than by Jean and the trustee’s. I would have thought this would be clear cut theft/fraud and easily dealt with, but it seems it is quite difficult to deal with the power of politicians here. Moves me to feel a relative affection for our politicians, who only diddle the odd personal flight or stomach stapling operation (as far as we know anyway!).

So for the last four years it has been a tight ship, under the care of Khader sir, the regional coordinator for Dhan, Nagarathanim Madam in the girls hostel, and Deva sir who looks after the boys. All three are so solid in their ethical beliefs about putting the children first, doing what’s best for the local communities and greater society as well as their spiritual beliefs all intertwined.

Specs:

In Nillakottai, a small town which is the big smoke for many smaller villages in its surrounds (about 80 I think). North east of Madurai, 1.5 hours away from there by bus.

The main Illam building: Houses the girls and the Life centre (adult education centre). One small complex of buildings 3mins walk from the main drag. (my attempt at a map on paint below)

The Garden: This is a lovely 8 acre area of grass, flower and fruit trees that Jean has planted over the last 20ish years, a well and two buildings where Deva and the boys live. It is about 10-15 minutes walk through some countryside and a small village to the main building. The boys come to the main building for breakfast and after school for study, prayer and dinner. The 4-5 acres next to this land is the land in dispute the Illam used to cultivate food here to feed children and raise money.

Children, 11 boys and 24 girls (one of whom I have not met as she is at her parents) between 7^th and 12^th standard (ages 12-17).

Culture- Affection, Study, Prayer

I feel that the culture here at the Illam is very good. The relationship that Nagarathanim has with the girls, Deva with the boys and Khader sir with all the children is really healthy, and the relationship the children have with each other makes me go “awwwwww you are sooooo lovely and adorable and funny and sweet!” on the inside (sometimes on the outside too) when I seen them play fight and joke, correct each others behavior and generally be affectionate.

Korbinaran, Muniaple and…….. cuddling up on the bus for a snooze after a trip to the nearby city Dindigul. Super cute.

They competed in a Dhan essay writing and drawing competition, (Dhilip came second place for his drawing)  participated in a walkathon with hundreds of school kids (10 min walk!) to raise awareness on the huge waste problem here in India, then came with me up to Malaikottai, an amazing old Hindu temple/fort on a Huge rock (not a hill, a rock).

Of course there are some differences in thinking when it comes to how the place should be run.

N is of the thinking it is best and safest to keep boys and girls separate until they are in their 20’s, more mature. I tend to agree that this is probably a good idea here in India, where the relationship between males and females are more fraught (the no-mans land in between dotted with mines and darkly moonlit corners) the gossip mill (totally a mill) could be quite dangerous, the government could shut down the Illam, apparently, if it’s reputation was damaged by inter-genderal fraternisation. (sorori-fraternisation? Hmmmmm) .

So there is no intermingling and getting to know you between the girls and boys, not even at the washing up sink, where if a group of girls are washing their dish the boys will wait around the corner (and vica-verca).

From what I’ve seen in the Dhan offices in Madurai and the Life centre here, the relationship between sexes is very relaxed and fun. Workmates refer to each other as brother and sister (Older brother=Anan, Older sister= Aka, younger sister=Tengae, Younger brother=Tembi). I think that Khader and Deva would like to see more mixing between the girls and boys as a precursor to this more modern Dhan work culture, I think also it would be nice for them to study in their age groups together maybe. But for the moment the safe option prevails.

The other thing I love about the culture here, as well as India in general, is the central place spirituality takes in life. Prayers! Morning twice, before eating, a big one in the evening. I really love the prayers! I would describe them as rhythmic undulating chants, the girls usually start them with the boys joining in at what I’m pretty sure is a minor third below.  Of course not all people can sing so it can get a bit atonal at times, but some nights it is magic. Aaaaaaaauuuuuuuuuuummmmmmmmmm shakti, shakti, shakthi (sounds like ‘shanti’ to me)

Below is the daily routine (a good example of the tight shippiness Nagarathanim has implemented!)

430AM – wake up, wash (YIKES!  I did this the first day, then never since hahah)

500AM – yoga (a modified simple sitting routine)

-          Hair do’s (big deal), general get ready

-          Study

700AM – Prayers (afterwards a chorus of “good morning madam! Good morning sister!)

-          Study

745AM – Breakfast (girls in their room, Madam, Deva, I and the boys in the dining room)

830AM – Prayers outside all together

840AM – Go to school

5 to 530 pm – Back home from school

545PM – Snack and tea time, a different snack for each day of the week J

6 to 730PM – Study (boys in life centre, girls all over the place in hall and around dining room, or upstairs next to my room catching the last light)

730-45PM – Prayers all together in the big hall

 800PM – Dinner time

After, boys go home, more study I’m guessing. Girls will study for another hour or so, then younger ones in bed by 10. A couple of very diligent studiers go past 1030 but most o time all in bed by then. Sometimes I rark up the younger ones before bed with a rousing game of candle sticks or duck duck goose, N doesn’t seem to mind (Simon says is the more educational option). They tell me they’re ready for bed when they’re ready! I don’t ever remember doing that as a child, but then I wasn’t getting up at 430 and expected to study for couple of hours after a late dinner.
Top Picture: Younger girls with shared reading in the big front hallway with the help if their dependable Aka Divya.
Bottom Picture: Older girls reading a passage from a spiritual book and shred discussion afterwards

On Fridays there are special prayers in the morning after breakfast with the girls and N, and at night with everybody. There is one prayer that was composed by Vasimile (Dhan director) and the Dhan foundations prayer man. (Can’t remember the official title) I heard him lead the prayers at the Dindigul walkathon, it was captivating. The Illam is non-delineational, respecting all three main religions here (Hindu, Islam and Christian). A few children are Chirstian, the rest Hindu. In the dining Hall there are pictures of Jesus, Veniaha (ganesh), Mariamal (I’m prettyu sure another name for Siva’s wife Parvati) and Muslim patterned tiles.  Their prayers are also non-deliniational (is that a word? I thought it was but spell check is telling me no!), chanting more about ethical concepts rather than devotional to a specific deity.

THE FUTURE- Sounds like they will have more children next year! Talking to D and N, the ideal future it seems is that when the land is returned (hopefully!) they will start to raise funds to build two dormitories on the land, and the current main building will house the Life centre.

hello!

Internet is down at teh Illam due to government workers digging through phone lines. So I've been out of touch, but will have plenty to say soon!
love to you all

Becoming a Woman - manjal neer-attu vizha (turmeric bathing ceremony)

So when a girl comes of a certain age she gets celebrated! Family and friends give gifts and money, and mother, aunties and Gran perform a ceremony with lots of laughing and carrying on.

A lot of this is about stocking up your dowry for when you get married mind you. (despite Dowry's being illegal now).

The ceremony I don't really understand, I asked a couple of people but they didn't really know either!

So thank you internet. It is a ritual only still celebrated in southern India, mostly Tamil Nadu. I didn't see this part of course, but for three days the girl is secluded and faces many restrictions. 

Then the celebration, your family comes bearing gifts. Platters with bananas and coconuts (with a sandalwood paste and red ocher dust dot same as the forehead bindi) on three sides, Sari's, jewelery and brass pots and buckets.

She is dressed up beautifully, reminds me of bridal dress actually. Huge beautiful thick rope garlands of flowers.

During the ceremony her female family stand around her and recite some verses- there's the part where biscuits are placed and need to be balanced on both shoulder, hands, head and feet, then are taken off and put on again (and repeat one more time) then they are flicked off and broken.    

Why?! 

Then you hold a leaf, water is put on the leaf and you delicately fling it to the north, more water, east, more water south, more water , west.

Why!?

Internet, you're not helping.

So I'm super lucky and have been taken along to two ceremonies now! 

Nagarathinam took me along to her distant relations celebration, will add photo's later. Below are some photo's of a huge celebration of Dheva's cousin.

It started off with a procession of silk sari clad family, behind a band and bomb like crackers that made me squeel and wince every time. These guys had English drums and trumpet, as well as ye olde English red coat army diggs, but were playing Tamil music. ...was great.....

 

We walked through town, traffic had to stop for us! I was surprised it did, but I guess a procession must be important enough :)

On arrival at the large full reception hall, Mina was in her Green Sari, and there were greetings and all the gifts were placed in an area in front of her.

Then she changed into a gifted sari from her uncle and the biscuit/leaf ceremony commenced.

After this another sari change!

Now everyone came up and gave her gifts of money (unless they had done that and filled in the register at the door (Dheva's job for the whole day....). She would touch their feet, then when she stood up the family member would press sacred white powder of her forehead- the official photographer and video camera man got really good shots of everybody doing this.

Gifts of gold jewelery were also put on her, the photographer making sure to get good shots of the goodies, Mina and the gift giver. Thanks so much to Dheva for sharing this with me!

I'm In India!

Yes I know you know that.

but sometime's I finding myself getting a bit too comfortable with the fact. Then I remember , "Awesome I'm in India!" again and I have a little wonder trip.

I want to continue this higher frequency of wonder experiences back home. 

A surprise insight.............

So at the Illam in the front room there's also the 'Life Centre', which is a Dhan initiative running at cost courses in computers, tailoring and beauty therapy to help people start small business and generally up-skill.

The teachers are Kalachelvi and Mugeshwari (spelling!) for tailoring, Raji.... for beauty therapy and Deva and Kalachelvi for computers.

Last week I was invited to Raji's house for lunch, so after one class lesson at the primary school and a bit of general faffing about Mugeshwari and I hopped on the back of Raji's moped and zoomed off. I have to say I really enjoy the freedom of helmet-less squashed together scooter riding, with multiple assertive beeps being made while coming up to a typically haphazard Indian intersection. basically all these beeps translate to  "I'm coming through!", or "just letting you know I'm coming around the corner". I like it. It's like how you negotiate a busy street as a pedestrian, there's a general order but lots of crossing over- except on wheels.

So I gave my talk on back injury prevention, exercises and some simple massage and general back pain acupressure to a womens' outreach group, then had lunch. Unfortunately I didn't tell Raji that I was vegetarian! And assumed that she- being Hindu- was also a vege. Mugeshwari explained (she being a good translator) that the first time you are invited to a person's house as a guest you get a very special spread.; It was Fish, chicken and Mutton! oh man. I asked for vegetarian, and She served me some rice and Sambal instead which I really liked, but it's not special enough so Raji wan't very happy. I have to say I find these cultural mistakes which i (often) make quite excruciating! I felt even guiltier when i realised that me feeling guilty was making her feel even worse as a host. So anyway it was sorted out when I was invited back to a proper special vegetarian spread :)

It was a big surprise, and I feel very lucky to have been dropped into a middle of a family factory. Raji's family have for generations been working 'silver' (steel). Right next door to her house was a factory with about 45 workers that worked 8 hour shifts (so the factory went all day). Here are some pics! I loved seeing people actually making the stuff  BY HAND you just take for granted around the place. 

M in Red, R in Blue, R's Uncle making water Pots. Also an outside view of part of the factory. Which kind of merged from a house at the front to a factory at the backyard! She said that the worker families and hers had been working together for generations, I thought it was great! though I think OSH would have a field day.

Next we visited Ragi;s husband's work. He is a traditional Gold Smith (three Generations). There are about 8 men working in a house, all sitting facing eachother across the room. Cricket on in the background, get your blow torch out and go for it. EXTREMELY intricate work. 

Raji's husband in the checkered purple shirt, and his brother. 12 years of training and still learning off their father :). It was really nice to see they are doing so well, when in the paper the other week i was reading that the traditional goldsmiths were having a really hard time competing with machine made jewelry, being paid very low wages and also receiving less 'wastage' gold that they used to (people supply their own gold to the jeweler and they would get some wastage gold dust). THese families seem to work for them selves, ad supply about 3 shops in Madurai as well as ones in Chennai and Dindigul.

xo

Top 5 interesting quirks so far

1) Banana leaf plate Etiquette.

DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT fold your banana leaf away from you when you have finished eating. A grave insult, not unlike taking off your glove and slapping you host in the face. Please fold up and over TOWARDS you. I'm not sure what happens if you try to fold it sideways.

Eating off a banna leaf is great, and it's also a bit special. Restaurant or event = banana leaf plate. Banana leaf night at the Illam is Wednesday, I can't wait!

2) Giant (tacky? no!) golden costume jewelry.

Can you afford an ounce of gold to put on yourself? are you a foreigner completely un-prepared for the worried sympathy of your little sisters (tengae)and strangers about the fact you do not have sufficient (any) bling for every day use or for weddings? are you a young girl?

Perhaps you'd also like to zoom into see my 'correct' dark eyebrows. Thanks Banu for lending me such a lovely Sari! (this was for going to see a Muslim wedding with Khader and his family).

"no problem"

3) Pimped up buses.

Many buses are actually privately owned and then the government contracts out to the drivers. These private buses have speakers all the way down blasting (most of the time) awesome Tamil pop music, perhaps with TV dance accompaniment. Also don't forget the fairly light enshrouded shrine to one's favourite god or guru, strings of flowers (fake and real) all around the windscreen and a mean paint job. 

4) Pretty glass bangles

Aren't they pretty and don't they have such a nice jangly sound? Yes I think so- and only 50NZ cents for 12, a bargain! (apparently not). However they are only for pregnant women at their 7th month of pregnancy. Sigh.  The tradition for this is to wear them all up both arms, and the jangling will alert your family if you start having contractions when you move around.

5)Mini Banana

The perfect incense stick holder, essential for any important rites or rituals.

Dhan-Karunai Illam Trust School

Hey :)

Please take a look at this brilliant video on youtube, made by two NZ guys (Danny P and 'Fish' ) who were staying here before I arrived. It's captures the feeling of the place really nicely.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8bf4_mImV0

I'll write more on the school soon

Two days as a tourist

16+17/01/12

The Dhan foundation runs free tours for foreign tourists to visit rural villages during the Pongal harvest Festival. I couldn't believe it really! So it was organised that another foreigner currently staying with Dhan in Madurai, Eri, and I would go on these tours. Mr Bharathi, a co-ordinator for the tourism for development arm of Dhan insisted that Eri and I go along.

About a week ago I briefly met Eri, a Japanese post grad student, who is doing some research on the 'tank' systems with Dhan, which are the traditional method for communities to store water for drinking and irigation. She was staying in a very nice apartment rented by them for guests, so I was to stay with her.

First however on Saturday I was taken along with Nagarathinam to her home village. Another very warm welcome from her mother, sister and nephew. Her nephew, 7, was very outgoing and had a best friend who was very keen to try out their English on me. Which for children is always discussing their and my name, my 'native place', and each others father, mother sister and brothers names (with adults this extends to what each of these people do as well.) Them and and two younger accomplices, loved to play 'school' and went out in the sunshine.  N.'s mother's back is very bad, but her neighbours are very kind and help her get food from the shops and clean the house. I was asked to have a look at her back, but it was too out of shape for me to have any effect with one treatment, with the three lower vertebrae protruding alot. So I asked whether she had tried a steroid injection to manage the pain, as well as suggesting a position to lie in with a hot water bottle. It feels very difficult to suggest these things, so many people here have pain, and the one's I've seen so far have been more extreme and chronic than what I see back home, and that's not counting the people on the street with incredibly twisted hips giving then a rolling walk. She'd had a steroid injection before in her shoulder, but didn't want to take them regularly because she feared kidney damage (Nagarathanim studies homeopathy part time). Always with the weighing of costs and benefits.

N. told me a bit about growing up here, for 16 years, all with the same friends and a garden near by. Her neighbours house was a large grand building originally for one family, but now the family's four brothers live in different wings sharing the courtyard and garden. It was such a lovely environment, lots of brothers sisters and cousins living together. Here, after introductions, the kids proceeded to decorate me! I was given a necklace, had mehendi (the skin dye) applied (spots on the palm and back, and the tips of the fingers), my hair redone and toenails re-varnished a vivid dark purple. Far more satisfying than light blue. After that another beautiful meal from a banana leaf and a gripping tamil TV drama, I got most of the more slapstick jokes :)

No, that isn't me.....

-MONEY MONEY MONEY-

It is very difficult for me that Nagarathinam matter of factly paid for my bus fares to Madurai (about 80NZ Cents for just underan hour) and her home village, the 'auto's' (rickshaws) inbetween, accompanied me back to Madurai and then travled back an hour to her home village all on her holiday. Also, breakfast out of her own money! When it is so cheap for me, and I imagine an expense for locals, I have waves of guilt and uncertainty about what to do. The time's I've offerred to pay or go halves have all been turned down, however I did insist on paying for dinner with N. that night. But to be honest I'm not sure if that was an insult or not, also when I tried to give her some money for bus fares afterwards.... Although her and Mr Khader have alot of experince with foreigners it mgiht still be seen as insulting, or mayeb I'm SUPPOSED to insist? I think I might have to clarify with someone at some point.

(since clarified, yes is insulting to insist to pay. oops)

So anyway, back to the Post topic :)

I feel so lucky to have spent my time here so far, as a guest with real families. Having the chance to talk to people and see their homes and receive their hospitality, in villages and in the city.  So this was quite a different experience.

The first day Eri and I got up early and were picked up to go to the tourist office by Mr Bharathi, programme leader of the tourism for development arm of Dhan, and a driver in one of their jeeps. So with about 50 other European, English, American and Aussie tourists we were off. I was imaging lots of chatting and connecting with other tourists, but this wasn’t really the case. We got taken in the Jeep to the village, not sure why but totally felt like a VIP :p.

Into Thirumalpuram village, 12 km from Madurai. Out of the bus and into a party! Crowds of locals and us, with three musical troupes. One with this kind of dancing….

“Karagattam, one of the oldest versions of folk dance in Tamil Nadu, defines the quintessential art of praising the Goddesses with fine balancing of decorated pots. Performed to please the rain and river deities, the dance form is aesthetically tuned by musical instruments and songs. With decorated pots filled with water on their head, the Karagattam dancers move with the rhythm of the music. The uniqueness of this dance form lies in the dexterous handling of pots by the dancers”

http://www.mapsofindia.com/tamilnadu/music-and-dance/karagattam.html

These ladies were really……. How can I best describe?.... cool and groovy?! Oozing with style?! Definitely. 

They kind of reminded me of modern African American style dancing with really rhythmical subtle body movements.

They danced to three drummers with a guy dancer in puffy satin pantaloons- a low and medium two skinned drum, and a smaller once skinned drum. Joining in were one or two horn/clarinet type instruments with which it sounded like you could charm a few snakes.

 The music, again, really groovy.

*LOVE*

Another group of musicians with a similar make-up, and another troupe of about 8 male dancers, which were playing mostly the one skin drum (one with two shakers, one with the large two skin. This drum/dancing is….

Also, there were two bullock carts, especially for grandly and bumpily carting tourists.

So we were in a crowd, which was forming pretty tight circles around the groups; to get a good shot one had to tiptoe around the bullock dung with one’s camera held high and take a good guess. Or, quickly see an opening and scoot around. We followed the jostling procession, down a side street to an open concrete area with lines of older women stirring pongal in pots. Invited (dragged) over, Eri and I were snapped by the local newspaper throwing rice into the boiling water.

*FAMOUS!* 

This rice throwing was followed by exultant ululation (again reminding me of Africa, but with the tongue going side to side I noticed) and stirring.

Silampattam group, http://www.tamilspider.com/resources/2957-Silambattam-The-art-Tamilians.aspx

More Soon!